Now I make the pockets gusset. I've come to prefer a 5/16" welt now and use
that on my bags. When I do gussets I find it best to work from the center to
one side, then again for the other side. I saddle stitch everything, back stitch
a few times and tie it off.
Doing it that way always gives me a nice even gusset.
Now I do a lot of counting of holes, line up the pockets main welt even with
the front panels holes and tie it in several places so it stays in place.
Now for the easy part, I lay the pocket face down as you can see in this picture
and stitch one side to the halfway mark.
Here it is at the halfway point, looking inside. Now I back stitch several
times and tie it off.
Now I work at the top of the otherside. Folding over the leather and stitching
down to meet where I stopped from the other side. It's not as easy as the first
half but it's not that difficult either to do this side this way. I find it easier to
do than it is to struggle trying to turn the pocket out. Also if another pocket
is wanted on the opposite side (inside the front panel) this is the way to do it.
Once it's all stitched up, I pound the pockets edge with a rawhide hammer to
flatten it out on the panel. The end result is hopefully a nice centered
gusseted pocket on the front panel.